12/12/2017 - Late breaking news!!
Life is almost returning to normal and the address you now see will be official on 12/20. The not quite back to normal part is that all my book copies went up in smoke and won't be replaced. BUT I still have it in PDF form. I will have DVDs again within a week.
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For larger rings, I resort to a really simple clamping mechanism borrowed from the tourniquet. Just take a couple of strands of sturdy string/twine and make a loose loop around the ring. Then find something to use as a twister. I use clothespins. Depending on how strong the string/twine is, you can actually clamp with as much force as with the hose clamp. Once you have twisted it up tight, use a clamp or a weight to keep it from coming loose while the glue dries.
If you take care to match up the corners at each segment joint, the combination of the uniform forces of the tourniquet clamp and accurately cut segments will result in a perfectly round ring.
When the clamp starts to draw tight, a hammer becomes a good tool to try to coerce the segments to lie flat. Just give a whack to each and every segment while holding the ring down in a flat surface. You will need to go around the ring three or four times.
When clamping solid rings (the segment's long side is the same as the radius) be prepared for trouble no matter how accurately the segments are cut. The culprit is moisture from the glue, which causes the tips to expand. There are five ways I know to limit the effect:
A glued up ring can be somewhat tender. I have yet to break one in normal handling and flattening, but dropping one on the floor is another story. A thin ring with the grain running around the circumference will be the weakest because all of the joints will be end grain and glue starved.
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Page Last Updated: 12/12/2017